Basic hand stitches for wool and linen

Hand stitches for wool and linen fall into a small set of families that cover most household repairs: temporary basting, seam reconstruction, hemming and invisible finishing. Wool knits and woven linen behave differently under the needle — wool stretches and recovers; linen has little give and frays along the grain — so stitch choice and tension matter as much as thread selection.

Running stitch

The running stitch passes the needle over and under the fabric at regular intervals. On linen, keep stitches small — roughly 2 mm — when securing a frayed edge before it travels further up the cloth. On loosely woven wool suiting, slightly longer stitches (3–4 mm) follow the weave without gathering the material.

Running stitch suits temporary holds: aligning patch edges, closing a split seam before backstitching permanently, or gathering a dart during fitting. It is not durable enough alone for stress-bearing seams on heavy linen work shirts or wool trousers unless doubled with a parallel row.

Backstitch

Backstitch creates a continuous line with no gaps, making it the standard hand substitute for machine straight stitching on torn side seams or underarm splits. Work from right to left if right-handed: bring the needle up at the seam start, insert it one stitch length back, then emerge one stitch length ahead of the first exit point.

On wool gabardine or twill, pierce only the top layer when repairing from the outside to hide thread on the face — a variation called half-backstitch. Linen shirt seams tolerate full-thickness backstitch because the thread sinks into the weave.

Slip stitch and blind hemming

Slip stitch catches a thread or two from the garment body, then slides through the folded hem edge. Only tiny dots appear on the right side — essential for linen tablecloth hems and wool skirt facings where topstitching would look out of place.

Press the hem allowance first. On wool, steam lightly so the fold holds without a permanent crease mark. On linen, a crisp fold from a hot iron reduces bulk. Space slip stitches 6–8 mm apart on heavy linen curtains; 4–5 mm on lightweight wool linings.

Stem stitch and outline reinforcement

Stem stitch wraps thread around the needle exit point, producing a rope-like line. Use it to reinforce embroidered motifs on wool sweaters where a single yarn has broken, or to outline appliqué patches on linen children's clothing. Follow the original stitch direction so new thread blends with old.

Stitch length and tension by fibre

Linen: Work with firm, even tension. Loose stitches slide along the smooth fibres and open under wear. Secure thread ends inside seam allowances with three small backstitches rather than knots, which can work through fine linen over time.

Blends: Match behaviour to the dominant fibre. A linen-cotton shirting frays like linen but accepts slightly longer stitches; wool-synthetic blends may not full like pure wool — test tension on a hidden area first.

Starting and ending threads

Begin by burying the knot inside a seam allowance or between fabric layers. For visible mends on wool, split the yarn and leave tails inside the knit structure. End by weaving through existing stitches for 2 cm before trimming. On open-weave linen, a single backstitch anchor plus woven tail prevents pull-through.

When to combine stitches

A split underarm on a linen shirt often needs running stitch to close the gap, backstitch for strength along the stress line, then whip stitch over the raw edge inside to stop fraying. A worn cuff on a wool sweater may use Swiss darning (covered in the darning article) with slip stitch to reattach a turned hem.

Practice on swatches before garment work

Cut 10 cm squares from scrap linen or felted wool jersey. Mark stitch lines with removable chalk or basting thread. Practice each stitch until length and tension stay even across ten repetitions. This preparation takes minutes and prevents uneven repair lines on visible garment areas. Keep completed swatches labelled with stitch name and thread used — a reference when returning to mending months later during seasonal wardrobe rotation common in Canadian households.

Left-handed mending

Left-handed sewers may work from left to right on backstitch and running stitch for clearer needle path. The goal remains identical: even spacing and fibre-appropriate tension. Mirror written diagrams mentally or sketch your own direction arrows on scrap paper before starting on the garment.

The Canadian Conservation Institute textile care guidelines recommend minimal intervention and reversible methods where possible — advice that translates to household mending as avoiding heavy polyester thread on historic linen and documenting any repair on culturally significant pieces.